London Fashion Week, Heart of Darkeness, Apocalypse Now, Peter Beard, Todd Lynn, Marcus James, John Rocha, Château la Coste, Mary Katrantzou,

It is a beautiful, melancholy beginning to London Fashion Week with 3 talents to thank for this. On a first note, from a collective inspiration of Heart of Darkeness, Apocalypse Now and the artist Peter Beard, comes a diligent series of impeccably tailored offerings by Todd Lynn. The most notable are his colorfully printed silk pieces, so marvelously decorated by the hands of artist Marcus James. Here exists a captivating tension between the organic washes and the severe silhouettes – they simply smolder with beauty. There were also dark undertones mingling in the romance-gone-wrong theme of John Rocha‘s collection. The location of a glass chapel he is designing in the Château la Coste in the south of France inspired his color palette. Despite the bursts of red, yellow and pink, there was an emotive sense of shattered gloom that is alluring in the crushed silks, layered sheers and veiled lace looks. Finally, there was nothing disappointing in Mary Katrantzou‘s blend of melancholy. Her signature prints referenced stamps and banknotes of past – and possibly lost – cultures and values. Her constructions in this collection appear far less complex in a more paired down, direct marriage of print and form. The prints shimmer, the fabrics flow and the shapes billow with a luminosity that only Mary can procure. And it’s so money…

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